Geography
The Sierra Nevada
stretches 400 miles (650 km), from Fredonyer Pass in the north to Tehachapi Pass
in the south. It is bounded on the west by California's Central Valley, and on
the east by the Great Basin.
Physiographically, it is a section of the Cascade-Sierra Mountains province, which in turn is part of the larger Pacific Mountain System physiographic division.
In west-east cross section, the Sierra is shaped like a trapdoor: the elevation gradually increases on the west slope, while the east slope forms a steep escarpment. Thus, the crest runs principally along the eastern edge of the Sierra Nevada range. Rivers flowing west from the Sierra crest eventually drain into the Pacific Ocean, while rivers draining east flow into the Great Basin and do not reach any ocean. However, water from several streams and the Owens River is redirected to the city of Los Angeles (see Los Angeles Aqueduct). Thus, by artificial means, some east-flowing river water does make it to the Pacific Ocean.
There are several notable geographical features in the Sierra Nevada:
Lake Tahoe is a large, clear freshwater lake in the
northern Sierra Nevada, with an elevation of 6,225 feet (1,897 m) and an area
of 191 square miles (489 km²). Lake Tahoe lies between the main Sierra and
the Carson Range, a spur of the Sierra.
Hetch Hetchy Valley, Yosemite Valley,
Kings Canyon, Tehipite Valley and Kern Canyon are the most well-known of many
beautiful, glacially-scoured canyons on the west side of the Sierra.
Yosemite
National Park is filled with stunning features, such as waterfalls and granite
domes.
Mount Whitney, at 14,505 feet (4,421 m), is the highest point in the
contiguous United States. Mt. Whitney is on the eastern border of Sequoia National
Park.
Groves of Giant Sequoias Sequoiadendron giganteum occur along a narrow
band of altitude on the western side of the Sierra Nevada. Giant Sequoias are
the most massive trees in the world.
The height of the mountains in the
Sierra Nevada gradually increases from north to south. Between Fredonyer Pass
and Lake Tahoe, the peaks range from 5,000 feet (1,524 m) to 8,000 feet (2,438
m). The crest near Lake Tahoe is roughly 9,000 feet (2,700 m) high, with several
peaks approaching the height of Freel Peak (10,881 feet, 3,316 m), including Mount
Rose (10,776 feet, 3,285 m), which overlooks Reno from the north end of the Carson
Range. The crest near Yosemite National Park is roughly 13,000 feet (4,000 m)
high at Mount Dana and Mount Lyell, and the entire range attains its peak at Mount
Whitney (14,505 feet, 4,421 m). South of Mount Whitney, the range diminishes in
elevation, but there are still several high points like Florence Peak (12,405
feet, 3,781 m) and Olancha Peak (12,123 feet, 3,695 m). The range still climbs
almost to 10,000 feet (3,048 m) near Lake Isabella, but south of the lake, the
peaks reach only to a modest 8,000 feet (2,438 m).
The well-known granite that makes up most of the southern Sierra started to form in the Triassic period. At that time, an island arc collided with the West coast of North America and raised a set of mountains, in an event called the Nevadan orogeny. This event produced metamorphic rock. At roughly the same time, a subduction zone started to form at the edge of the continent. This means that an oceanic plate started to dive beneath the North American plate. Magma from the melting oceanic plate rose in plumes (plutons) deep underground, their combined mass forming what is called the Sierra Nevada batholith. These plutons formed at various times, from 115 million to 87 million years ago. By 65 million years ago, the proto-Sierra Nevada was worn down to a range of rolling low mountains, a few thousand feet high.
By 20 million years ago, crustal extension associated with the Basin and Range Province caused extensive volcanism in the Sierra. About 4 million years ago, the Sierra Nevada mountains started to form and tilt to the west. Rivers started cutting deep canyons on both sides of the range. The Earth's climate cooled, and ice ages started about 2.5 million years ago. Glaciers carved out characteristic U-shaped canyons throughout the Sierra. The combination of river and glacier erosion exposed the uppermost portions of the plutons emplaced millions of years before, leaving only a remnant of metamorphic rock on top of some Sierra peaks.
Uplift of the Sierra Nevada continues today, especially along its eastern side. This uplift causes large earthquakes, such as the Lone Pine earthquake of 1872.
Ecology
The Sierra Nevada is divided into a number of biotic zones
The Pinyon
pine-Juniper woodland, 5,000-7,000 ft (1,500-2,100 m) east side only
Notable
species: Pinyon Jay, Desert Bighorn Sheep
The lower montane forest, 3,000-7,000
ft (1,000-2,100 m) west side, 7,000-8,500 ft (2,100-2,600 m) east side
Notable
species: Ponderosa pine and Jeffrey pine, California black oak, Incense-cedar,
Giant Sequoia, Dark-eyed Junco, Mountain Chickadee, Western gray squirrel, Mule
deer, American black bear
The upper montane forest, 7,000-9,000 ft (2,100-2,700
m) west side, 8,500-10,500 ft (2,600-3,100 m) east side
Notable species: Lodgepole
pine, Red Fir, Mountain Hemlock, Sierra Juniper, Hermit Thrush, Sage Grouse, Great
Grey Owl, Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel, Marten
The subalpine forest, 9,000-10,500
ft (2,700-3,100 m) west side, 10,500-11,500 ft (3,100-3,500 m) east side
Notable
species: Whitebark pine and Foxtail pine, Clark's Nutcracker
The alpine region
>10,500 ft (>3,100 m) west side, >11,500 ft (>3,500 m) east side
Notable
species: Polemonium viscosum (Sky Pilot), Pika, Belding's ground squirrel, Yellow-Bellied
Marmot, Sierra Nevada Bighorn Sheep History
History of exploration
The
earliest identified inhabitants of the Sierra Nevada were the Paiute tribe on
the east side and the Mono and Sierra Miwok tribe on the western side. Today,
passes such as Duck Pass are littered with discarded obsidian arrowheads that
date back to trade between tribes. There were also prehistorical territorial disputes
between the Paiute and Sierra Miwok tribes European-American exploration of the
mountain range started in the 1840s. In the winter of 1844, Lieutenant John C.
Frémont, accompanied by Kit Carson, was the first white man to see Lake
Tahoe.
By 1860, even though the California Gold Rush populated the flanks of the Sierra Nevada, most of the Sierra remained unexplored. Therefore, the state legislature authorized the California Geological Survey to officially explore the Sierra (and survey the rest of the state). Josiah Whitney was appointed to head the survey.
Men of the survey, including William H. Brewer, Charles F. Hoffmann, and Clarence King, explored the backcountry of what would become Yosemite National Park in 1863. In 1864, they explored the area around Kings Canyon. King later recounted his adventures over the Kings-Kern divide in his book Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada. In 1871, King mistakenly thought that Mount Langley was the highest peak in the Sierra and climbed it. However, before he could climb the true highest peak (Mount Whitney), fishermen from Lone Pine climbed it and left a note.
Between 1892 and 1897, Theodore Solomons was the first explorer to attempt to map a route along the crest of the Sierra (what would eventually become the John Muir Trail, along a different route). On his 1894 expedition, he took along Leigh Bierce, son of writer Ambrose Bierce.
Other noted early mountaineers included:
John Muir
Bolton Coit Brown
Joseph N. LeConte
James S. Hutchinson
Norman Clyde
Walter Starr, Sr.
Walter A. Starr,
Jr.
Features in the Sierra are named after these men.
History of the
name
In 1542 Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, sighting the Santa Cruz Mountains while
off the peninsula of San Francisco, gave them the name Sierra Nevada meaning "snowy
range" in Spanish. As more specific names were given to California's coastal
ranges, the name was used in a general way to designate less familiar ranges towards
the interior. In April of 1776 Padre Pedro Font on the second de Anza expedition,
looking northeast across the Tulare Valley, described the mountains seen beyond:
Looking northeast we saw an immense plain without any trees, through which the water extends for a long distance, having in it several little islands of lowland. And finally, on the other side of the immense plain, and at a distance of about forty leagues, we saw a great Sierra Nevada whose trend appeared to me to be from south-southeast to north-northwest.
Its most common nickname is the Range of Light. This nickname comes from John Muir. This description is due in part to the unusually light colored granite exposed by glacial action.
Owens Valley and the Sierra Escarpment
Climate and meteorology
Precipitation in the Sierra ranges
from 20 to 80 in (500 to 2,030 mm) during fall, winter, and spring. It occurs
mostly as snow above 6,000 ft (1,829 m). Rain on snow is common. Summers are dry
with low humidity. Temperature averages 42 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit (5.5 to 15.5
degrees Celsius). The growing season lasts 20 to 230 days, strongly dependent
on elevation.
A unique peculiarity of the Sierra Nevada is that, under certain wind conditions, a large round tube of air begins to roll on the southeast side. This is known as the "Sierra Nevada Rotor." This "mountain wave" forms when dry continental winds from the east cause the formation of a stacked set of counter-revolving cylinders of air reaching into the stratosphere. As of 2004, no sailplane has found its top. Similar features occur on many mountain ranges, but it is often observed and utilized in the Sierra. The phenomenon was the subject of an Air Force-funded study in the early 1950s called the Sierra Wave Project. All recent world altitude records set in unpowered aircraft were set in the Sierra Nevada Wave, most flown from Mojave Airport.
The Sierra Nevada casts the valleys east of the Sierra in a rain shadow, which makes Death Valley and Owens Valley "the land of little rain".
Protected Status
In
much of the Sierra Nevada, development is restricted or highly regulated. A complex
system National Forests, National Parks, Wilderness Areas and Zoological Areas
designates permitted land uses within the 400 mile stretch of the Sierra. These
areas are jointly administered by the U.S. Forest Service, the Bureau of Land
Management, and the National Park Service. See List of Sierra Nevada topics for
a list of protected areas.
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The facts in this page on Nevada were updated in December 2007